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• #Railway track anvil weight full

This should give you a suffiently hard top to work enough top to work hot iron on. Then remove the barrel from the anvil, insert a long pipe or rod thru the center void in the anvil and set the rod on the top of oil resevoir with the anvil top down and let it alone till it cools, There will be a lot of fire at first and for awhile till it cools some so be prepared for it, hence the long rod.ĭo your machining before heating and you might consider machining half of a square hole toward the heel of each piece so they match up prior to welding for a hardy hole. Keep feeding the fire till the anvil glows a nice red. Throw in some scrap wood and start it on fire. then place your anvil up on a couple of fire bricks on a dirt base and place the top portion over the anvil. Check with resturants or fast food resturants for used deep fat frying oil to quench in.Ĭut the top out of 55 gal steel drum and then cut the top two thirds off the barrel, put the oil in the bottom third of the drum as a quench tank.Ĭut four or five 1 1/2 inch slots about 6 inches tall around the cut end of the top piece.

#Railway track anvil weight full

Hardfacing rod will show up as a bright streak down the center of the anvil face and have underbead cracking and peel off if over one layer thick, weld the top joint with 10018, full penetration weld and then use a hardfacing underlay rod for the last 1/2 inch or so, weld the bottom joint with 7018. Besides the fact quenching it in oil is right out- no proper ventilation, massive fire hazard and the ovens are right next to the teach's office.) (In other words, I don't know how we'd get a 100-lb block of red-hot steel out of the tiny front-loading oven and into a quenching bath. The last part I think will be a bit of a problem- I need to reharden the face, but the college's (electric) heat-treating ovens aren't suitable for spot heating, or heating and then allowing a quench of something this large. I'll then flycut the top faces to dead-flat, and do a little cosmetic grinding and polishing here and there. That plan at this point is to anneal it again, to both soften the hardfacing rod, and relieve some of the welding stresses.

The whole mess will likely be just over 100 lb when done, and giving me a 6" x 10" top face and 5" long horn. I'll then "cap" the gaps between the rail web with plate welded in place.

Filling the top of that gap with hardfacing as well, and probably with a decent gusset underneath made out of plain mild steel. Next, we also annealed a 6" by 3-1/4" roundbar of 4140, which I plan to mill down to a vague horn shape, and weld to the end of the rails. Probably with a normal rod like 7018, except for the topmost 3/8" or 1/2" of the gap at the face, which I plan to fill with hardfacing rod. From here, I plan to mill the two mating faces fairly flat (I have a machine shop) and weld them together. I then had the machine shop at the college run them through the heat-treating ovens to anneal them. I torched it in half, notched one end and trimmed the base so that the two can sit fairly close together. I had a section of heavy-gauge rail in the scrap pile, just over 20" long. Now, what I have in mind is this, see attached photo: I'll just be doing small ornamental stuff, or the usual knives and whatnot, until I either get the hang of it and start thinking of bigger stuff, or I lose interest and go back to combat sportfishing. I'm looking to build myself a small propane forge, using one of the various designs out there (any recommendations?) and to go with it, I'd need an anvil. And, there's a fair number of farriers, do-it-yourselfers and elderly metalbeaters around so that anvils are rarely sold, and when they are, they're bought up instantly and for relatively high prices. I'm in Alaska, and so shipping on heavy items like anvils can easily be equal to the cost of the anvil itself. Followed a link over from the Home Shop Machinist site, and since I'm starting on a project, I thought I'd hang out a while.